This is the Great Dismal Swamp Canal, connecting Elizabeth City with Norfolk. Isn't it gorgeous? This swampland has been a source of lumber for 400 years, and George Washington set out to drain sections for lumber early in his career. Congress approved a canal connecting the waterways of Albemarle Sound in NC with the Chesapeake Bay in 1793. It was completed in 1805, and is the oldest operating canal system in the country.
It gets the name "dismal" because that was the word the early settlers used for "swamp". The two terms were synonymous, but somehow both became the name.
There are two locks, near each end of the swamp, to raise boats from sea level to the higher level in the wetlands. We left Elizabeth City at 1:30 pm, when the drawbridge I showed in my last posting opened for us. We started so late because we were waiting for a special-order zinc anode fitting for the generator to come in. While waiting, we washed the entire boat, did laundry, and got our first pump out, all firsts since this segment began in Charleston. The salty residue on the rails had gotten pretty disgusting.
When the shipment came in (and we determined the zinc was the wrong one), we took off as quickly as we could to try to reach the lock, 20 miles north, for its last opening of the day at 3:30. They open both sets of locks only four times each day, so as to not drain the swamp. Anyway, we had to travel much faster than usual - about 10 mph - to make it to the lock, and it was actually quite a kick "weaving" the sharp turns of the beautiful Pasquotank River, lined with its tall trees. Along the way we spotted a beaver swimming near the shore.
We arrived at exactly 3:28, needing the extra two minutes to switch our fenders from starboard to port. Then the gates opened, and George got to experience his first lock. It was number 105 for me! As has so often happened on this trip in the locks, we were the only boat there.
Once through the lock, we slowed WAY down and soaked up the beauty of this old canal, with the incredible reflections in the glassy water. We saw no other boats until we reached our destination, the Great Dismal Swamp Welcome Center (which was the ONLY place to stop for the night along the entire 30-mile canal).
The canal was hand dug by slaves, in horrible conditions of hot, humid, wet, buggy misery. We did learn that since there were so many black work communities there, it became a hide-out for runaway slaves and the Underground Railroad.
When we arrived at the Welcome Center, where we knew there was free dockage space for three boats, we found five large sailboats. The extra two were tied to the ones next to the dock. We were immediately welcomed to tie to the loner, a common practice for Loopers who find scarce dockage (called "rafting"). Except that I had never done it before!
Here's what it looked like when Breaking Away was rafted to a sailboat. As you can see, you must walk across your neighbor's boat to get to the dock, which means you make friends awfully quickly. The five boats already there had become best buddies, and it was 5 o'clock, so we immediately decided it was Happy Hour. Which boat was best suited for a big party?
Breaking Away was the obvious choice! They took their happy hours seriously, as we salivated as the dips and nuts and crackers made their way across the sailboat and onto our flybridge. I loved the whole thing, getting to have fun on my floating home, learning about others' cuising adventures and plans.
Just as Happy Hour was beginning, a 53-ft luxury trawler arrived from the other direction (he had made through the 3:30 lock opening 17 miles north). He also HAD to tie up to one of us, and it was easiest for a flat-sided trawler to tie to another flat-sided trawler, so I was suddenly getting sandwiched in. I was a rafter AND a raftee! Our new friends soon joined the party, and we had 12 up top my boat.
The next morning, all five sailboats left early, so we trawlers each got out own dock space. George and I toured the museum, then went on a 20-mile ride. On the way back, we stopped at a pick-your-own strawberry patch, and George selected us a bag full. YUM!
We headed north as three other boats passed the dock, and we gently cruised the 17 miles toward the next lock. Along the way, we passed a sign saying "Welcome to Virginia." Once through the lock, we soon entered the Elizabeth River, which flows north a few miles to Norfolk. We settled in to a marina where the canal meets the river, got fuel, had a fabulous dinner at the fancy restaurant there, and retired. What was cool about this restaurant was that the marina gave us $1 off the charge for every $2 spent. In other words, everything at the restaurant was half price! Well, we ordered all kinds of good stuff, including decadent chocolate desserts, and we got the bill up to where the marina was completely free!!!!
The next morning, Saturday, we followed this tug and barge into industrial, ship-building, Naval-base Norfolk/Portsmouth/Hampton Roads. We passed numerous huge naval ships, including the aircraft carrier Dwight Eisenhower. It was such a contrast a few miles back from the quiet idyllic Dismal Swamp Canal.
Here's a picture of a ship building yard. There were so many in this area. Most naval ships are built in the yards of Hampton Roads.
We docked in a small marina next to the waterfront section of Norfolk, for six hours to be tourists. This odd sculpture was nearby, and it was titled "The Tourists". You can see Breaking Away in the background.
George and I decided to visit the Naval Museum, which had the USS Wisconsin battleship. It was a fabulous tour, and just amazing to see how massive it is. The guide told so many interesting stories and facts. It's three football fields long (887 ft), and 108 ft wide. It carried 2700 sailors during WWII. It was most recently used in the Gulf War (Desert Storm).
Look at those six imposing 16-inch cannons! They shot 1900-lb bombs up to 26 miles.
After seeing the museum and battleship, we walked to Douglas MacArthur's memorial and burial site. They didn't make any bones about his firing by President Truman during the Korean War, except they slanted it in his favor as wanting to win the war at all costs instead of letting the peace talks take any precedent.
When our 6-hour marina stay ended at 4 pm, we had to cruise 16 miles to our marina where the boat will be stored until Janet and I return on June 6. After only one mile, we reached the end of the Intracoastal Waterway...or the beginning. It was Mile 0, with Mile 1065 in Miami Beach.
We continued out the Elizabeth River to where the James River empties into the base of the Chesapeake Bay, and then east almost to the ocean. Along the way, we passed many more Naval bases, including this one where the new aircraft carrier, the George H. W. Bush, is docked. It's pretty darn large too, isn't it?
Yesterday morning, another Naval base next to our marina played the National Anthem at 8 am, and we snapped to and cleaned up the boat. Breaking Away had made it back to the Chesapeake Bay, having traveled 6500 miles in one year and three days! Kent Narrows, where I began, is 200 miles farther north. Looking forward to finishing the Great Loop with Janet, seeing the wonders of the Chesapeake along the way, including Washington, D.C.
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